I had taken some photos of our fencing around here to show how we made our raggedy cattle fence keep in the goats. Anyone out there that has had experience with goats will tell you that they can manage to get out of just about any fence. I read in a book one time to throw a bucket of water at your fence; any place the water got through, so will the goat. We've learned many times how easy it is for a goat to end up on the other side of the fence. For the most part, we don't have any problems with them getting out when we have them in our "goat secured" pastures. We still have 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile of fence to make "goat proof".
The photo below has the existing fencing that has been on this farm for at least 40 years; minus the electric. We have places that has at least three layers of fence stacked on the top of each other. The barbed wire holds in the cattle well, even though it is pretty shot in a lot of places. The goats will step, jump, fly, or dance right on through that barbed wire. It will not hold them in. We now have insulators attached to the fence posts and have run one strand of hot wire near the bottom. They have total respect for that wire as long as the charger is putting out at least 2500 volts, our charger is on average 9000 volts so you can imagine. All it takes is just one little experience with it and they don't want to get near it again. We have been fortunate because many others say that the one strand won't do it for them. We have an insulator that is 10" and it seems to give the goats a little more stretch to get over and this seems to do the trick. We also like the 12 gauge high tensile wire for a couple of reasons, it's easier to see when riding the fence line, it will carry the current better and it will not break as easy.
For the gate below, we have "goat proofed" this area with a braided rope-type strand stretched across the bottom of the gate. I think it was purchased at Premier. Here is a link to what it looks like.
|"Goat proofed" gate|
Just by putting the metal hook on the end of the insulated handle in contact with the "live wire" it causes the hole strand at the gate to become electrified. This keeps the goats from even trying to get through. This particular gate has a pretty good size opening under the bottom which would allow those critters to slide right under. With that strand stretched across there, they don't even look twice. You can even mount this type of electric gate up higher to stop those aggressive bucks from beating down your permanent metal gates. This will also help prevent those LGD's that like to climb, from climbing over metal gates.
Here is a closer look of the hook and how it is simply placed into the loop onto the existing hot wire just to make contact. If you will notice the black doughnut to the left that is suppose to be the connector for the electric gate. We happen to have a nice loop hole at the corner insulator that works fine so we don't use the connector that came with the electric gate.
This handle is insulated so you can grab it to move the electric gate in order to pull through the gate. Once you remove the hook the electric gate becomes dead and you can hang it on the metal gate as you open and close the gate.
This is how the other side of the rope is attached. It is looped through this plastic insulator that is screwed into the fence post. Pretty simple.
This month's Goat Rancher is devoted to fencing too (and farm facilities). I do believe they carry this magazine in Tractor Supply stores (you can even view it online). Click here to be taken directly to the Goat Rancher website to learn more. You will find lots of information here related to goats.
****Thanks to my hubby Shane for help with getting all of the correct information to you. I had him proof-read and add several things.****